On the upside

River, estuary and now the sea. There was something about today that felt like a turning point. Overnight rain cleared, leaving the day rinsed clean. The Warren had never looked so empty of visitors and I kept having to remind myself that this really was June. So this was the moment to strike out along the most deserted section of the Camino

Something about the quality of the light, the sand and the buffeting wind felt positively European. We ran about giddily with outstretched arms, failing to take off. Actual seabirds seemed to have returned to a more natural set of behaviours. With no pasties or chips to steal, they lined the groynes like notes on a stave, facing seaward in search of a more natural lunch.

Elke remarked on the shadows made by parallel grooves in the sand behind small, perfect shells. She said they looked like a smudged charcoal drawing. I was fascinated by the long coils of elegant seaweed draped over the shore line. There were no feet to disturb them except our own.

As we walked back there were more surreal remnants of the resort. One or two kiosks were operating but most were boarded over, including the rides on the little funfair.

But it had been an invigorating walk and lovely to have such a beautiful stretch of coastline more or less to ourselves. We agreed that we did feel lighter, more optimistic, in spite of the many challenges that doubtless lay ahead. A corner had been turned.